Good skin can be cared for! Which steps belong in every skin care routine and which you can save yourself
How do I know what my skin needs?
Good question! Anyone who deals a little more intensively with the subject of skin care will quickly feel overwhelmed by the selection of products and ingredients. There are countless toners, serums, eye care products, day and night creams and so much more. But how do you know what your skin really needs? Don’t worry, you don’t have to study cosmetics science (you can really study) to do the right thing. Because there are a few easy care steps and ingredients that are simply good for every skin, every age. Skincare guru Paula Begoun told us what these are in an interview. The American is the author of 21 beauty books and founder of the hyped care brand “Paula’s Choice”.
How important is cleansing for beautiful skin?
Daily cleansing is the basis for good skin. “Especially when we use make-up and sun protection, it is extremely important that we wash our face thoroughly in the evening. Otherwise there is a risk of skin impurities,” says the skin care expert. According to Paula Begoun, mild cream or gel cleaners are well suited for all skin types – preferably in combination with a soft washcloth or a very gentle cleansing brush. “Only the two aids ensure that really everything comes down on superficial impurities. If the cleaner is mild, it cannot do it alone. You should rather keep your hands off aggressive cleaning agents. They may remove everything without additional tools, but they dry out the skin enormously,” says Begoun. Cleaning is also important in the morning. Because care products penetrate clean skin better and can work optimally.
Which peeling suits my skin type?
“Everyone, really everyone benefits from using peeling products with AHA or BHA acids,” says Paula Begoun. Mostly they are in toners, i.e. facial toners. Don’t let the word “acid” fool you. The ingredients in AHA and BHA products are softer to your skin than the granules in mechanical peelings.
This is how liquid peelings work: Both acids have an exfoliating effect, which means that dead skin cells are removed more quickly, making the skin more radiant. Nevertheless, there are decisive differences:
Peelings with BHA (beta-hydroxy acid = salicylic acid) have an antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effect. The expert explains: “BHA acid can penetrate the pores and clean them from the inside. Therefore, they are particularly suitable for combination skin or oily skin that tends to impurities”.
“AHA peelings (alphy hydroxy acid = glycolic acid or lactic acid) work on the surface and are best used on normal, dry or sun-damaged skin,” Begoun says. They counteract sun damage such as hyperpigmentation and moisturize the skin.
Important: Those who peel with AHA and BHA acids should pay more attention to daily sun protection!
Which order should I follow in the care routine?
Before you reach for the heavy cream, care products with a rather watery or gel-like texture should be used first. These include, for example, serums, boosters and gel-based care products. Why should you keep to this order? Otherwise the light formulas cannot penetrate the heavy care film of the cream and do not reach the skin at all – so they become ineffective.
Should every woman use a moisturiser?
“No, at least not in the traditional sense of the word. Most women understand moisturizing to mean creams and lotions,” explains the expert and adds. “Creams and lotions usually contain oils that are essential for dry skin, but far too rich for oily and impure skin. Because they clog pores and can even worsen the appearance of the skin. Keyword: “Pimple alarm.”
So if your skin is not extremely dry, you can do without a moisturizer – provided you use a watery skin care product as described in step 3 instead. For combination skin, it is advisable to apply the rich moisturiser only to the dry areas.
Does eye care make sense?
No, as a rule you can save yourself these! It is only worth investing in an additional cream if the skin around the eyes is much drier than that around the rest of the face. Even then, however, conventional facial care is sufficient. Provided that it is free of fragrances and dyes, which can irritate the sensitive skin area and the eyes.
“Often it is even the better decision to simply use the face cream for the eyes. Because, unlike many eye creams, in most cases it contains a sun protection factor. Too much sun is one of the main triggers of dark circles and wrinkles,” explains Paula Begoun.
How important is sun protection?
Very important! “80 percent of what disturbs our skin in old age is due to too much sun,” says the expert. The last step in your care routine for the day should therefore always be a product with a sun protection factor. “It doesn’t matter whether it’s particularly sunny outside or whether we’re just inside. Because the UVA rays responsible for ageing occur constantly regardless of the time of year and even penetrate glass.”
Did you know? It doesn’t matter if you use a day cream with SPF, a classic sun cream or make-up with LSF. “The proven protection is equally good, regardless of whether it’s in the foundation or the sun cream,” Begoun knows and adds: “If you lay several sun protection products, for example sun cream and make-up with SPF, that’s all the better. That way, you can be sure that they really get every spot.”
Should the morning and evening routines be different?
“Only in one point. During the day, the skin needs additional sun protection. Not at night, of course. But special night creams and serums are superfluous,” says Begoun. If that irritates you now, it’s no wonder. Because all cosmetics companies advertise their night care series with the fact that the skin regenerates better during sleep and is more receptive to the absorption of certain ingredients. “Both have not yet been scientifically proven. On the contrary: Instead, research has shown that the skin heals better during the day,” says the skincare expert. You should therefore invest the money for expensive night care in good sun protection.
Is it possible to overprotect your skin?
“Not if you use good products that fit your skin,” says Paula Begoun and adds: “Sure, whoever applies one heavy cream after another, uses highly perfumed or dehydrating products will drive their skin mad. But that can happen if you only use two or three unsuitable products.”
Is the skin getting used to care products?
“Of course not! The body doesn’t get used to spinach either. So our skin doesn’t get used to sun protection either. Cosmetic products continue to work, no matter how long they have been using them,” Begoun knows. But why then do you constantly hear from people that their care no longer works? Probably because the greatest results show at the beginning and at some point only the status quo is maintained.
The perfect skincare routine looks like this
Save money on night and eye care and invest in the really important products. For a balanced skin care routine you don’t need 36 products, but only a mild cleanser, a toner with AHA or BHA acids, a good serum, possibly a day care and in any case sun protection. Manageable, isn’t it?